Imagine slipping your feet into a pair of handcrafted leather sandals that trace their legacy back centuries—worn by kings, embraced by common folk, and now celebrated globally. That’s the enduring allure of Kolhapuri chappals, a timeless emblem of Indian craftsmanship. Join us as we journey through their 800-year evolution—from royal patronage in Kolhapur to becoming a globally cherished cultural icon.
1. Early Origins: Royal Roots in the 12th–13th Century
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The roots date back to the 12th century, with King Bijjala of Karnataka and his prime minister Basavanna encouraging local footwear production WikipediaMadras Courier.
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By the 13th century, these sandals were worn widely and were known by various names like Kapashi, Pietaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukri—reflecting their origins in specific villages and artisan communities UtsavpediaWikipedia.
2. Evolution and Wider Adoption
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In the 18th century, under local artisans like the Saudagar artisans, the footwear transformed into a refined, slimmer version called Kanwali, with side flaps resembling "ears" UtsavpediaMadras Courier.
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Kolhapuri chappals began to spread across Maharashtra and beyond, gaining popularity among all social strata and later reaching global markets Madras CourierRegal Shoes.
3. Revival under Kolhapur’s Royalty
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Rulers like Shahu Maharaj and Rajaram II bolstered the local industry—introducing tanning centers and promoting artisan training—leading to increased visibility and commercial production WikipediaMadras Courier.
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Kolhapur flourished both as a hub of tradition and an industrial centre for handcrafted crafts Wikipedia.
4. Geographical Indication & Modern Recognition
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A major milestone came in 2019, when Kolhapuri chappals received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, legally protecting the craft and linking it indelibly to its region of origin Wikipedia.
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This recognition supports authenticity and empowers local artisans against imitations.
5. In the Global Spotlight: Heritage vs. Appropriation
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In 2025, luxury brand Prada sparked outrage for crediting Kolhapuri-inspired sandals without acknowledging their Indian origins. Public backlash led Prada to issue an apology and pledge collaboration with local artisan communities The GuardianReuters.
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The controversy brought renewed global attention and national pride to the traditional artisans—reinforcing their place in the world fashion narrative.
6. Continuity and Change: 800 Years Forward
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For centuries, Kolhapuri chappals have endured—from rugged, heavy-soled footwear for harsh terrain to today’s lightweight, embellished designs fit for festive occasions Vhaan Ethnic Craft.
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Handcrafted using tannery-free, vegetable-dyed buffalo leather, they remain a symbol of sustainable, artisanal fashion WikipediaUtsavpedia.
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Despite modernization, authentic production still survives in cottage industries—though challenges like counterfeit products, factory-made alternatives, and leather sourcing persist WikipediaMadras Courier.
Summary of Key Milestones
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12th–13th century: Origins under King Bijjala’s patronage
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18th century: Shape refinement & wider reach
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Shahu Maharaj: Industry support & expansion
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2019: GI status achieved
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2025: Global recognition; cultural appropriation controversy raises awareness
Why This Legacy Matters to You & Vhaan
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Every pair of Vhaan chappals is a tribute to 800 years of craftsmanship, culture, and authenticity.
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Vhaan empowers traditional artisans—continuing the legacy while ensuring fair livelihood and global appreciation.
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When you wear Vhaan, you're not just walking in footwear. You’re walking in heritage.
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Discover the legacy of Kolhapuri craftsmanship: Explore Vhaan’s Authentic Collection and step into history — hand-woven, hand-tanned, and heartfully crafted.